Milestones in order. This is history, not a weekly activity grid.
- Cyprus cosmetics
- Coty Chypre
- Mitsouko
- Femme
- Miss Dior
- Cabochard
- Aromatics Elixir
- Knowing / others
- Oakmoss limits
- Niche restages
Darker cells mean a higher score for this topic on that metric.
LessMore
Last reviewed Sources & creditsMedia creditsMethodology
Quick answers
What is Chypre?
Bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum — the 1917 idea IFRA rewrote. The architecture survived the molecule.
EDP vs EDT — what changes?
Concentration is oil in alcohol, not a quality score. EDT (about 5–15%) shows more top; EDP (about 15–20%) shows more heart and base. Houses vary; this is not a lab assay.
How should I wear Chypre?
One or two sprays on skin or cloth — sternum or hair, not a cloud in a lift. Let it turn an hour before you add more.
Which season fits?
Autumn, tailored day. Summer heat can turn moss bitter and loud.
Does skin chemistry change it?
Yes. Warm, moist skin amplifies sweet and spice; dry or cool skin can turn the same juice woody, soapy or short. Test on your skin, not only a blotter.
What about IFRA and oakmoss?
Oakmoss is IFRA-limited. Classic chypre and fougère bases were rewritten; modern “moss” is often a reconstruction. Ask a clinician about reactions — this is not medical advice.
Chypre did not arrive as one bottle. The timeline below keeps Grasse, Guerlain, Chanel, Nahéma and IFRA as proper names, not metaphors.
Read the years as a map of trade and reformulation, not as a ranking of beauty.
Timeline
- Cyprus cosmetics
The name chypre / Cyprus: moss and resin memories, not yet Coty math.
- Coty Chypre
François Coty states the bergamot–labdanum–oakmoss chord.
- Mitsouko
Jacques Guerlain adds peach; the most cited child.
- Femme
Roudnitska’s ripe chypre for Rochas.
- Miss Dior
Paul Vacher / Jean Carles: floral chypre for the New Look.
- Cabochard
Grès / Cellier: leathery chypre.
- Aromatics Elixir
Clinique / Bernard Chant: mossy-camomile power chypre.
- Knowing / others
Lauder chypres as American volume.
- Oakmoss limits
Atranol/chloroatranol cuts; Evernyl and reconstructions.
- Niche restages
Vintage-minded houses rebuild 1917 geometry under new law.
The eras
- Cyprus idea — A name and a cosmetic paste, not a pyramid textbook.
- Coty–Guerlain — The structure is stated and immediately mastered.
- Fashion chypres — Dior, Grès, Clinique — moss as chic and power.
- Retreat — Orientals and aquatics take the floor.
- IFRA chypre — The family lives as a problem of moss substitutes.
Milestones
- Coty Chypre, 1917 — The family gets a name and a chord.
- Mitsouko, 1919 — Fruit-moss as a world masterpiece.
- IFRA oakmoss caps — The structure’s legal crisis.
Chypre keeps moving; the other six chapters say what one date cannot.
Origins & milestonesNotes & accordsCraft & methodCulture & meaningIcons & legendsHow to wearMarket & bottles